(This photo combines the dynamic effect of panning with the slightly blurry subject and dreamy background afforded by the right combination of the shutter speed and flash output. A plain background like the floor here can make the subjects stand out and is preferred. All photos in this post were taken with a Canon G7)
Let's revisit the topic on flash photography and learn yet another trick to show more class in your photos.
In a previous post here, we discussed how to use flash to freeze a subject painting light trails. In another post here, we mentioned how to shoot at a dimly lit environment with a flash and achieve a dreamy visual effect in the photo.
In a nutshell, the tricks with flashes we previsouly discussed are about a sharp subject with a moving background. This time we move a step up and focus on a sharp subject yet with a slightly blurry effect against a dreamy, blurry background.If photography is cookery, the ingredients for this trick are: flash, dragging the shutter speed and slightly panning the camera to the moving subject (Note: must pick moving subjects for this trick!). For the flash to show any effect, the shooting is to not be made in a sunshiny or spotlighted place. For the matter of this trick, do the shooting in an adequately lit indoor environment like most shopping centres or restaurants.
(The active space in the photo enhances the dynamic effect of the trick to be dicussed below. The brightened yellow line and the metal frame leads the viewer's gaze from the girl to the active space, stressing the direction of the motion. If the word "active space" doesn't ring a bell to you, read here)
Flash
Now, let's prepare the ingredients. First, the flash.
You don't need a flashgun. The in-camera flash will do the trick. Our mission is to make the flash output a major but not overriding source of illumination; that is to say, we don't want to blow out the background. So, set the flash to slow sync, at second curtain if the option is available.
If the camera features a manual flash output option (like my cool GX200), go for it because this gives you the carte blanche to apply your creativity. Experiment for the desirable output by starting from the ballpark number of 1/11 for subjects at 1 metre distance in the setting suggested above (i.e. in most shopping centres or restaurants). If you can't find any of these flash output options, try the fill-flash function. You may also attach a piece of translucent paper on the window of the flash to dim its output.
(A stronger flash output in relation to the shutter speed may brighten up your subject to an extreme point. Tune down the output unless this is what you expect to achieve)
Drag the Shutter Speed
Then, dragging the shutter speed.
This is for adding a slightly blurry effect on the subject. So, drag the shutter speed so that it is less than adequate to freeze the moving subject. Let's recap on the previous tips on dragging the shutter speed (Note: the following is my experience with the local people; different nationals may walk at a different pace) : to stop a passer-by walking at a normal speed across the frame, drag the shutter to 1/30 will freeze the action; walking towards the camera, make it 1/20. For a running person across the frame, freeze the action at about 1/125 or less; running towards, make it 1/80. Starting from those standards, tweak the speed slower to blur the moving subject for the desired effect.As a rule of thumb, a shutter speed just past the freezing point adds just a bit of blurs to the moving subject while a shutter speed long past the freezing point gives long blurry trails to the moving subject. Choose what suits your taste.
(The boy is walking towards the camera in which case the shutter speed may drag farther past the freeze point if you wish for a slightly more blurry subject)
Pan Your Camera
Now that the flash and the shutter speed are all ready, the dish is almost done except for this one last thing to embroider it with: panning.
Ask your subject to move across or towards the frame and pan your camera along the movement. Panning the camera will do two things: first, it will freeze the moving subject and give a sharp image of it in the photo; second, it will blur the background.
With the shutter speed dragged to less than adequate in freezing the subject, the panning can freeze the motion but not in its totality. The mechanism is that at the point the shutter is pressed and released to take the shot, the moving subject is still able to go a bit further in the image. But since the shot is taken with the flash as a major source of illumination, the last bit of the movement can be freezed in the image. Provided that the flash output and shutter speed are fixed, the proportion of bluring and sharpness of the moving subjects hinges on the duration of panning before and after pressing the shutter. Experiment the panning to get the results to your liking.
(In addition to panning along a movement across the frame and towards the camera, you may ask your subjects to move up and down and pan the camera accordingly. Such movements should be taken as running across the frame. So make reference to the relevant freezing point as suggested. Here the shutter speed is dragged way past the point to achieve a greater sense of moving)
Panning also blurs the background. This is easier to understand. A shorter, slower panning blur the background slightly and a longer, speedy one make it more blurry.
The dish is ready now. Enough gushing. Bon appetite!